Tips for Flat Borders

Do you have issues with wavy borders? Do you want to make your longarmer’s life easier?

If your borders don’t lie flat, a lot of effort is required to make them behave during quilting, and the result can include some rippling of the fabric. There is only so much that can be “quilted out” when it comes to excess fabric in your quilt borders.

First, always measure your borders. Don’t assume that your quilt has ended up the exact size that the pattern calls for. Remember, even minor variances add up over the length of a quilt. For example, if your block is simple 1/8″ too small, it may go together perfectly – if all your blocks are the same amount too small, because you are consistent if not competely accurate, the quilt center will be perfect and flat. But it will not measure the same as what the pattern says it does. 1/8″ variance on each block, in a quilt with 8 blocks along the length, will be 1″ shorter than the pattern calls for. More seams increase the variance.

But all is not impossible. You just need to take a few steps to make sure that your borders fit your quilt correctly. Rather than relying on the pattern measurements, measure your quilt in quilt both directions. Take at least 3 measurements – one about 6-10″ in from each edge, and one down the middle. Now, some people say average those numbers and use that. I tend to disagree. In particular, if you quilt is set on-point and/or has a lot of bias edges, your outside measurements may be a fair bit larger than your center measurement, due to the bias stretching. So I prefer to use the center measurement in those cases. But that’s also why I say go in 6-10″ from the edge – that moves away from the worst of the stretch.

Cut your border to the length of your center measurement (if the center is longer than the edge measurements, use the average of the two edge measurements instead). It is always best to ease your fabric, rather than try to stretch it. Carefully mark the center of quilt & border, and the quarters. Match those marks and pin your borders in 5 places – the outer edges, the center, and each quarter. Now lay your border down, and fill in pins, easing the quilt top if necessary to distribute any excess fabric along the length of the section. When you sew, you are going to sew with the quilt top down against the top of your machine, and the border piece up. This makes it easier to ease the fabric of the quilt top to match the border measurement.

Working one section (between pins) at a time, encourage the fabric to fit – without stretching the border fabric. Carefully work any fullness towards the needle, and you will be amazed at how much you can cleanly shrink your quilt edges without any pleats, to match the border length you measured. Press the border seam (using some steam if necessary to complete the “shrinkage” of the quilt center), and move on to the next section using the same method. Once 2 borders are attached, lay out your quilt and measure & attach the next two sides, using the same methods.

6 Tips for a Successful Longarming Experience

  1. The backing should be 4″ larger than the quilt top on each edge, so that there is enough fabric to attach to the leaders and clamps. That means a total of 8″ longer, and 8″ wider than the top.
  2. If you want the backing/quilt top oriented in a particular direction, mark the top of both parts with a pinned note. Same if you want something centered on the backing – include a clear note.
  3. Backing seams, when possible, should be 1/2″ wide and pressed open. If you are using pieced blocks as part of the backing the 1/4″ seams are fine, but 1/2″ seams will provide less bulk when it is possible to use them.
  4. Cut off your selvedges in the seams.  Selvedge along the outer edge of the backing is fine – in fact, it is wonderful to be able to use perfectly straight selvedge edges to attach the quilt back to the leaders.  But in your seams, make sure you trim the selvedge on the backing, just as you would when piecing the front of your quilt.
  5. Ensure your borders lie flat. Wavy borders (due to border strips being too long) or puffy quilt centers (due to borders being too short) make for difficult challenges during quilting.
  6. Trim loose threads.  Once they’ve been quilted over those stray threads are hard to remove, so clear as many as you can from the seam lines on both the front and back of your quilt.

Spring Garland

Some new pantograph patterns arrived this week. I thought I’d share some details of each of them over the next few days/weeks.

First up, we have Spring Garland. This is a fun design, with flowers, butterflies, and ribbons.  It looks great on a bright fun quilt. You can see the design here on the back of my quilt – a slightly contrasting thread means you get to see the details of the quilting design.

On the front, the thread was chosen to blend with the fabric, so the emphasis is on the texture, rather than the details of the design.

A new home!

As I build up my longarm business, I decided that it needed a new home.  So here I am: Quilted4You.com will focus on my longarm quilting activities.  Drop me a line at krista@quilted4you.com if you want information about the services I offer.  Custom quilting, or pantographs. Dense or lightly quilted. Quilted your way, for you.

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